Everything You Need to Know About Cotton Jersey Fabric

Everything You Need to Know About Cotton Jersey Fabric

If you’ve ever sewn a comfy tee, a soft pair of leggings, or baby clothes that made you say, “Ooooh, squishy!” — chances are you’ve used cotton jersey. It’s one of the most popular knit fabrics in the sewing world, loved for its versatility, comfort, and stretch. But what is cotton jersey, exactly? And how do you work with it without ending up tangled in loops and stretched out seams?

Let’s dive in.

What is Cotton Jersey?

Cotton jersey is a knit fabric, which means it’s made by looping the yarn together instead of weaving it in criss-cross patterns like cotton poplin or lawn.

This looped construction gives jersey its stretch and softness. It often comes in either 100% cotton or cotton blended with elastane/spandex (usually around 3–5%) to enhance its stretch and recovery. There are a huge variety of bases for jersey now and each brings its own extra quality. For instance using a Bamboo cotton mix usually gives a lot more drape to your fabrics so when they are worn the fabrics can flow over the body more closely and have a little more swing to their movement. Beginners can definitely give these a go but cotton jersey is more stable and has less chance of stretching out. The first jersey I tried to sew with was a bamboo jersey. It was gorgeous. I bought it on holidays in Wales from I think it was Calico Kate and the colour was the most gorgeous shade of pink. It did not go well. The threads kept bunching under the throat plate and the fabric wouldn't move through the machine. I have learned quite a bit since then and can handle bamboo now but it was, for me at least, not a great place to start haha!!

It has a slightly textured back (known as the purl side) and a smooth front (the knit side), a good place to see this more clearly would be with the like of a terry cotton. If you’re working with single jersey, you’ll notice it loves to curl at the edges. Double jersey (or interlock) doesn’t curl and is thicker, but less common in light dressmaking fabrics.

Art Gallery Fabrics Hot Pink Single Jersey

What Makes A Jersey Single or Double?

Single jersey is created using one set of needles which give a distinct "V" pattern on the front and the looped affect I mentioned before is on the back. Single jersey is probably the type you are more familiar with as it is used for creating tees, leggings etc. because of the more fluid and drapey movement.

Double jersey is created using a double needle which gives the usually thicker, heavier, and more stable structure, with the same appearance on both sides. Double jersey is more suited to the likes of jackets, awesome bodycon dresses and trousers.

Why Sewists Love Cotton Jersey

Cotton jersey is the comfort fabric of dreams. Here’s why sewists reach for it again and again:

Exclusive Print Funky Zebras Single Jersey

• Soft & Breathable – Ideal for garments worn close to the skin. I love woven pjs for a touch of luxury but it will always be my comfortable jersey jammies I go back to when comfort calls.

• Stretchy – Perfect for movement and comfort and can make fitting a breeze!

• Versatile – From loungewear to kids’ clothes to stylish dresses, it adapts well. How many day to night outfits are based around layering a good jersey piece.

• No Fraying – The knit structure means raw edges won’t unravel, even without an overlocker. I won't tell you how many tees I have that are unhemmed because I just tuck them into my jeans haha!

It’s especially good when sewing:

• T-shirts & tanks

• Baby grows and leggings

• Pjs

• Bodycon dresses & wrap tops

• Beanies, headbands, and soft accessories

Challenges of Sewing with Cotton Jersey

Let’s be honest — as much as we love jersey, it can be a bit of a diva.

• It curls at the edges Especially lighter weight jerseys. A quick press with spray starch or fabric clips instead of pins can help. I also seen a TikTok or YouTube video where the creator used hairspray to keep the curls at bay haha

• It can stretch under the presser foot Use a walking foot or a stretch/jersey needle to keep your stitches smooth. You know, exactly all the things I didn't do the first time I used the bamboo jersey.

• It can look wavy Support the fabric as it feeds through the machine — don’t pull or push it. Using stretch fix can help with this especially for hems. It is like Wonderweb in that you press it onto your fabric using your iron and it sticks to the fabric. Let it cool after pressing. There is a paper layer to peel off which reveals another sticky layer. You fold the tape inside your fabric and that creates your hem which is ready to sew. I will link a video here on YouTube that shows you the process.

• Hemming can be tricky Try a twin needle or a zigzag stitch for clean, stretchy finishes. I tend to use twin needle but definietly feel like the stretch fix, or even some stretch interfacing helps with keeping the twin needling a lot cleaner.

The learning curve isn’t steep, though. A bit of patience and a few good tools go a long way.

What About Sustainability?

Cotton jersey’s sustainability profile depends on the fibres used. Regular cotton is biodegradable, but traditional cotton farming is water- and chemical-intensive.

Here’s how to choose better:

• Look for organic cotton jersey — these fabrics are produced without harmful pesticides and often under fairer working conditions.

• Certifications to watch for: GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), OEKO-TEX.

• Avoid blends with high synthetic content if you want a fully biodegradable option.

Also, because jersey is so comfy and durable, it often gets worn a lot — which helps reduce waste compared to throwaway fast fashion.

Weights & Structure

Cotton jersey usually ranges between 160 – 220 gsm (grams per square metre):

• 160–180 gsm: Light and drapey — perfect for t-shirts, babywear, or layering pieces.

• 200+ gsm: More structured — better for dresses, trousers, and clothes where you want shape.

Tips for Sewing Success

• Use ballpoint or stretch needles — they glide between the fibres without tearing.

• A walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly.

• Use stretch stitches or zigzag settings to avoid popped seams.

• Don’t stretch the fabric as you sew — let it move naturally.

• For tricky hems, try using Stretch Interfacing or a twin needle finish.

• An overlocker is an awesome help when sewing jersey but is not essential.

In Summary...

Cotton jersey is a dream fabric once you get to know it. Soft, wearable, and totally beginner-friendly with a little patience, it opens the door to a world of handmade comfort.

If you’ve never tried it before, start small — maybe a simple t-shirt or a baby hat — and build your confidence. You’ll soon be reaching for it again and again!

You can explore our current range of cotton jerseys (including this week’s Fabric of the Week – now with 10% off).

Happy Crafting, fellow Creatives 💛